Scotland Trip - Day 2, Monday 16th August
Onwards to Onich
Viaduct over the Tweed |
Awake fully clothed on the bed in the B+B. Obviously I had been more tired than I had previously thought. I had only gone for a sit down to rest and then go down for another beer. Ah Well! I obviously needed the sleep. It's only about 6:30am, so I get into bed proper and have a bit of a snooze. Put the telly on for the weather. It's looking a bit grim. Severe weather warning for Western Scotland. I look out of the window. It's looking a bit grim. It's raining in fact. I shower/shave and then go down to breakfast at about 8:00am. Looks like I'm the only one in as they've only set one place. I have a continental breakfast. Cereal, orange juice, coffee, toast and marmalade. I have already decided against the full English for the rest of the holiday as I will just put on stacks of weight. Pay the bill £23.50 and then go up and brush teeth, finish packing, etc.
I decide (wisely) to go for the full bifta waterproof over-suit. I'm on the road by about 9:25am. It's still raining but not too bad. Off up the A68. Yet more speed cameras! A brief stop at the bridge over the River Tweed at Gattonside. Very picturesque. Nice viaduct. I take some pictures. Up to Edinburgh and just before I join the A720 I stop for another bum break. I have a section of clearway, followed by a bit on the M8/M9 to get me round to Sterling and I won't be able to stop on this section. I park up in Dobbie's Garden Centre and walk round for 10 minutes.
Onto the A720, then the M8 and finally the M9. Rained with a vengeance round this section, but nothing my waterproofs couldn't handle. Leave the M9 at junction 10 and onto the A84. The weather settles down a bit. The "rain" is now mainly spray throw up by the other vehicles. By the time I reach Callander it has stopped raining. I stop in Callander for about 30 minutes to grab a sandwich and a drink. I eat in Callander but it would have been more sensible to push on a couple of miles to Loch Lubnaig and stop by the loch side and eat in a more peaceful environment. Ah! well. I'll know for next time. Off again up the A84 to Lochearnhead. Then the A85 to Crainlarich. Here I join the A82 and up over Black Mount. You get a good view from here looking back over Loch Tulla. Carry on over Rannoch Moor towards Glen Coe. Weather is pretty good now and the sun struggles to come out now and again. It rains as I come down through Glen Coe. According to Duncan it always rains in Glen Coe. I reach Onich at about 2:00pm and check into the B+B.
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Callander |
View back over Loch Tulla from Black Mount |
Panoramic view from the B+B
Distance traveled today so far 172.0 miles
Total distance so far 391.6 miles
The B+B Hillcroft at Onich |
I have a planned walk for this afternoon, so I prepare for it. I pack the rucksack with waterproofs (including trousers), a spare jumper (in case it gets cold), a torch, first aid kit, insect repellant, water, 2 Mars bars, hip flask and put it in the top box with the cable lock and my Aussie hat. I wear my jeans and hiking boots to ride. When I reach my destination I can pack the helmet and my jacket in the top box, lock the bike and I'm ready with my rucksack to go. That's the idea anyway. Now to see if it works in practice.
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3:45pm - I'm back in Glen Coe now for the 1st of my planned walks. This is a walk from the observation point halfway up Glen Coe at the Meeting of Three Waters. The walk takes you up between Beinn Fhada and Gearr Aonach, to Coire Gabhail. It's a climb of about 200m (650ft) vertical and about 2km horizontal. Coire Gabhail roughly translates as "Corrie of the spoil". It is also know as the "Lost Valley".
Whoever built this road was a biker I'll swear. It's got roller coasters, it's got twistys and I don't just mean in places. It's like this for its entire length of 15 miles, apart from the village of Kinlochleven at the head of the loch. Guys! Just take a week off, book into a local B+B for a week and spend every day riding around Loch Leven.
Note to self : If you want to admire the view, STOP! Failure to do so can lead to a near collision with the Armco.
Loch Leven |
Loch Leven |
I seem to have a midge infestation in my helmet. This is unpleasant to say the least, so I head back to the B+B to de-louse.
Later I'm off to the Onich Hotel, the only hostelry within walking distance. And very good it is too, if a bit pricey. I have the Thai vegetable Green Curry, which was very nice and sit out by the loch side to eat it. I order a pint of "heavy" basically a very dark bitter, partly on its way to being a stout. It's very nice though. I sit outside and drink until the sun sets and the midge population gets busy. I'm OK! I've used my extra strength insect repellant, but other patrons make a run for cover inside, so I go and join them. Meet two charming ladies (either one old enough to be my mum) called Leslie and Morag. They are sisters and have come over from east coast of Scotland (St. Andrews) to visit an aunt. We talk about Scotland, the weather (naturally), bellringing (briefly) and malt whiskeys. Apparently Glenmorangie is pronounced "Glenmorangey" as in "orangey". You learn something new every day.
3 pints of "heavy" later and its 10:00 and I'm off to bed. Walk back to the B+B the midges following me at a discrete distance. My room key does not appear to fit the front door, which is locked and I have to ring the bell to get in. No one seems to mind. I go to bed.
Distance traveled today 209.3 miles
Total distance 428.9 miles
